I took a look at the web sight, looks interesting.

If you go in that direction Andrew be sure to let us know your thoughts.

 

Here's a thread on installing Cyclops LED lights. http://f800riders.org/forum/showthr...forum/showthread.php/259178-F800GT-full-LED-headlights-system?highlight=cyclops

They are selling the H7 with 4000 lumens output for $65. https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4000-Lumen-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html

I have an earlier version that puts out about 3400 lumens. I love it. Bright. The light beam output is really close to the halogen bulb in cutoff and the beam pattern. Their customer service is great too.

Chris

 

I also have the Cyclops, confirm what Chris said.

 

Thank you so much Paul & Chris. I will order the Cyclops H7s!

Andrew

 

I have put around 6K miles on these: http://www.hidextra.com/razir-motorcycle-led-headlight-kit/

They have a larger back cooling fan area which requires a different cap. Check out the link posted by Chris For the information and more details. They are a huge improvement in lighting.

 

Those look great! Those seem like they would be better than the Cyclops ones!

 

I'm just starting to consider this upgrade, and I am curious to know why you think they would be better than the Cyclops version. Is it because of the lumens (6000 versus 4000)? Would the 6000k rating yield a street-racer blue tint to the light?

 

Maybe its my imagination, but aren't the fans bigger and bulkier?

Chris

 

yes, the ones I put in and referred to have much bigger fan bodies, which make them terrible to put in. I can't compare the two options, but have seen that many people here and other places really like the Cyclops 4K lumen lights with the much smaller fan assembly.

 

... many people here and other places really like the Cyclops 4K lumen lights with the much smaller fan assembly.

Slightly off-topic, but I installed the Cyclops 4k H4 light in my '67 R69S (which has a 12V alternator conversion). It probably triples the light of the halogen H4 that it replaced, and with only a limited nighttime test so far, the distribution of the light on high and low settings appears to be good.

 

I just checked the Cyclops site. If you are looking for a '13 or older F800, this is the page you want to order from:

https://www.cyclopsadventuresports....MW-F800700GS-LED-Headlight-bulb-and-cap-for-High-beam-2013-and-older_p_120.html

Beemer is a 2013 GT so I'll have to order this one. For us oldtimers, it looks like we have to purchase separate hi- and low-beams. $90 + $65. [xx(]

 

But I notice that a modified cover is included. That's good.

 

You can do it without the cover and save a couple $$. I couldn't get the ballast or whatever it is called to fit inside, so I drilled a small hole in the bottom edge of the OEM cover to run the wires outside. I attached it with velcro, but that came loose. In the meantime, it doesn't seem to make any difference except for appearance...assuming you can get someone interested in looking at the back of your headlights.

The low beam all fit within the headlight housing just fine.

Chris

 

You can chose to install the larger covers...but you don't need any new covers to make the installation work.

You can do it without the cover and save a couple $$. I couldn't get the ballast or whatever it is called to fit inside, so I drilled a small hole in the bottom edge of the OEM cover to run the wires outside. I attached it with velcro, but that came loose. In the meantime, it doesn't seem to make any difference except for appearance...assuming you can get someone interested in looking at the back of your headlights.

The low beam all fit within the headlight housing just fine.

Chris

As for the comment about the Velcro coming loose that held the driver against the underside of the headlight housing, I just used some glue on the sticky side of the Velcro to help it out. Works great.

Before the people selling the Cyclops lights came up with the covers, do you think they told people not to install them? Of course not.

Chris

 

You don't need to leave the cap off. Just cut a hole that you can slip the wire through. Just a guess, but say 3/8 of an inch by 1/8 wide. Make it on the edge so the wire slips through. I've been in some pretty drenching rains and not had any leakage.

Chris

 

Thanks. I just got an email from Cyclops Adventure Sports saying essentially the same thing.

 

I've fitted HID (From HIDS4U) for both dip and full beams. No problems with Canbus and a hole cutter is supplied to cut the headlight covers. A rubber grommet with wires through it makes a watertight seal and with the ballast outside, suitably stuck on bodywork, all is working well. Light output is more than adequate and the dipped beam is well controlled. It is cheaper than your solution, but don't know how much Trump will charge to import it.

 

...don't know how much Trump will charge to import it.

Let's keep politics out of it. Besides, your government will be the ones to charge for importing it.

Chris

 

Jon and Chris I never considered leaving the ballast dangling out. Its heartening to read that rain has not been a problem for the exposed ballast.

I'll have another look and see where I can secure it and take Ken's tip to use a grommet to seal around the wire.

My bike is at the dealer waiting for my fairing parts to arrive following my kangaroo strike. Apparently 8 weeks is the expected delivery time for parts from BMW in Germany. This will be my last BMW......

 

Ken.

 

I installed the Cyclops H7s earlier this week. I highly recommend taking the fairings and windshield off, as well as unbolting the headlight module and letting it rest on a blanket on the front fender. The reason for this is twofold. First, every time I change a bulb, the little factory clips that hold your headlights in the reflector pop off (slide out from the anchor screw) and you can't reposition them without taking the headlight assembly off. Second, I used a Dremel-type tool to cut/grind a place for the high beam's ballast wires to neatly fit under the cap (I made the gap in the body of the back of the headlight housing so that I wouldn't affect the rubber gasket of the cap) and I could not have done that without disassembling the bike as described. The cap fits on great. I hope that the heavy duty Velcro they provided holds it on to the bottom of the headlight housing. The light output is very good. The beam pattern looks just like the factory, only brighter. Much brighter.

 

Out of curiosity, is the main reason for this for night riding or conspicuity? I can't bring myself to ride at night around here there are too many deer, and I'm deer-paranoid!

 

I can only answer for myself. Until I retired two weeks ago, I was using my motorcycle to commute. I'd often be riding in the dark going to work, and riding home at night. As I tell people, I don't mind riding in the rain. I don't mind riding in the dark. But I really do not enjoy riding at night in the rain. The gray pavement turns black and it seems like all the light that hits it, gets sucked up.

So for me, on the last two bikes, I've added auxiliary LED lights that I could use to supplement the motorcycle's headlight. With the Cyclops LED light, I don't feel the need nearly so much, and like you, since I retired and quit the hour long commute I can chose now when I ride at night and when I don't.

Chris

 

I have a 2015 GT. Tried to install the Cyclops lights, and gave up.. Like Titleride mentioned the clip kept on coming loose.
Maybe give it another shot, and disassemble the housing, setting it on the front fender, as recommended.
Mostly for daylight use LA traffic, lights good, and ugly hi viz helmet helps too.

r

 

I read about the issues others were having and remembered changing the headlight on one of my cars. I really had a problem with the clip on it, and I had a lot more room. So when I got ready to put my Cyclops LED light in, I studied several videos on changing it over and over and over and over again. Then when I released the clip, before anything moved, I clipped it back on again. Maybe a couple times. It went together without any issues when I did it for real.

Chris

 

Success.. with the Cyclops LED lights
Was able to fit the driver and connectors inside stock housing, while still on the bike.. It was a bit of a squeeze, and took some time, but it's all in there.. Boy these things are bright..
It took some patience..

 

I have a 16 f8gt, cyclops now has covers available for about $20 each over bulb cost, should I opt for them for proper cooling of the system?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Having a little trouble understanding this. I would like to have the LED low beam only, and fit inside existing cover. Is this it?
thanks

 

Yes.

I personally went with the Cyclops LED lights. One of the things I liked about them is that they use a built-in fan for active cooling of the bulb. Some of the others just use a heat sink. That would probably work fine on a headlight where the rear was exposed to air movement, but in the confines of the headlamp area, I thought it best to use the fan. Another reason I liked going with Cyclops, is they have videos showing you what to do to install the LED bulb. In other words, they have real life experience in installing it on F800s.

Chris

 

thanks for clearing that up chris. GS vs GT is not clear to me at website. may i trouble you for proper model #?

 

Gary, it looks like this is the correct one for just the bulb. https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4000-Lumen-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html

With a little patience, you can fit the driver inside between the headlight housing and the back of the reflector, so the entire thing is inside. I had mine go out earlier this summer. They were surprised at that, but said it can happen. So they gave me a brand new bulb and driver. I decided to put the driver on the outside this time and keep some of the heat out of the headlight area. I don't know if that would be an issue, or not, but decided to try it anyway.

This option has a high beam bulb (same H7 bulb) and includes the cap to fit over the high beam side. There isn't enough room to fit the driver inside on that one. They also have a check box to include a low-beam H7 bulb in the purchase.

This option includes both the low and high beam bulbs, and caps for both the low and high beam headlights.

I think this is the thread that towards the beginning someone installed these and just drilled a whole on the edge of the OEM cap to let the wires for the driver pass through so the driver can sit outside the headlight assembly. I've had mine like that for about 10K and have had no issues. If you do this, simply move the rubber seal out of the way and drill through the bottom edge. When you put it together, pass the driver and wires through the rubber seal, then slide the wires into the new hole and put the rubber seal in place. The driver can be exposed to water with no issues.

Chris

 

good job chris. thank you. happy holidays my friend