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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys, I need your help, I wanted to connect the stop lights of the Givi top case to the FGT, but I have no idea how to make the connections, I'll use led lights. I'm no expert in this stuff... :(
Thank you
In the photo, the cables are coming out of the Givi
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I used the Givi stop light kit, pretty easy to follow their instructions. I tapped direcly into the stop light for the power. As the topbox LEDs have such lower power consumption is does not trigger any dash alarms.

Image below is where I took power for the topbox stop light. Rear light with lens removed, blue wire is live black is earth.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you drill the top of the taillight to run the wires through?
Isn't it possible to make a less invasive connection by intercepting the electrical system under the saddle?
 

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Did you drill the top of the taillight to run the wires through?
There were two drain/breather holes in the bottom of the lens I used those.

Isn't it possible to make a less invasive connection by intercepting the electrical system under the saddle?
I contemplated doing that, but it would have meant chopping into the original wiring. I felt the route I took was a lot less invasive.
 

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A standard uninsulated female spade electrical connector fitted into the holes as shown in the pics (it's not designed to it's just a happy coincidence), when I first did this, I considered it a temporary measure just to test if the topbox lights worked as expected without tripping alarms/error. I fully intended to use two "piggyback" connectors behind the lamp but the solution as shown has been fault free for 5 years so I've never felt the need to change it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Today I tried to connect the wires as suggested by MDG109 (see photo), even though I didn't connect the Givi lights, now when I press the pedal or the brake lever the stop light does not turn on and the "lamp" alarm appears on the display . I tried with two other new bulbs, in that case the "lamp" alarm turns on but the position light works.
 

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With nothing connected to the wires all I can come up with is that they may be possibly shorting though the metallic reflector coating, I have no idea if the reflector coating is conductive but it's all I could think of. Obviously not an issue I've had.
 

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So here's another option that won't cost much and may be easier if you don't want to get another light.

I'm sure everyone has noticed that the red "reflective" lens on top cases is not really reflective. If you buy reflective tape at your local auto parts store, you can put that on the inside of the red lens and it then becomes a giant reflector when headlights hit it. You don't need "red" tape, white will do as well because the red lens will make it appear red anyway.

Chris
 

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The standard rear light assembly was unchanged throughout the F800 range from 2006 had manufacturing quality issue around 2013. No problem with my ST for 6 years but shortly after buying a GT in 2013, the plastic lamp housing cracked extensively around the 3 mounting studs. BMW replaced twice under warranty due to same problem then problem went away and ok when traded bike in 2019. Current 2019 GT is ok. I think there must have been a faulty batch of lights.
Thanks for posting Hornig video showing how to remove rear light -- what a big job! I think the guy was lucky to not drop fuel filler screw into tank --- it would be good to tape over filler hole!
 

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I added a red led strip in my Shad topcase and on the back of the luggage rack too. Works great. Cost about $5.
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