That must be one of the highest mileage GT's anywhere, how has the bike stood up to that amount of use (and salt)?
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For the title of this post, I think you should change "Finally" with "Already" !
[bow]
Ian
[bow]
Ian
Could you share with us some of your service history?
Valve checks. How often? And was any adjustment ever needed?
The belt. Did you ever have to or did you ever adjust belt tension? What was the milage on your belts?
Valve checks. How often? And was any adjustment ever needed?
The belt. Did you ever have to or did you ever adjust belt tension? What was the milage on your belts?
Al, a fanastic milestone! A running GT with that mileage is a wonderful achievement, BMW should be informed, I firmly believe an award is due!
You must have a store of invaluable information on maintenance etc. Don't be shy as we are waiting with batted breath!
Compared to my previous high-mileage bikes (various F800STs, VFR800 VTECH, various Fazer 600s), the GT has been very reliable, with only the following required (besides the usual, tyres, oil, oil filter pads, lamps, plugs):
L&R grip switchgear
Faulty indicator
Head races
Fork seals
Exhaust link pipe weld slightly blowing (not enough weld filler material) - sealed with Loctite 5920
Seized rear floating calliper - captive boss end sawn off to free up stud
Paint flaking off mirror stalks, crankcase & sump, bar-ends
I might scare some of you with this but I have never had any intention of having the valves checked; have never changed the air filter (I tap the largest debris out once a year) and have changed the plugs once. I believe I am on the 4th belt (original pulley & sprocket) and find that they need changing around 28-30K mile point (I don't change at the first sign of root fracture but will order one in at this point). I have tried adjusting the belt tension but have never seen any evidence of the eccentric barrel/hub moving; fortunately, the tension is nominal (offers 45 degree rotational deflection, mid-span) and it is possible to run a new belt on to the sprocket without much difficulty, with the right strategy. My current weekly mileage is 800-1000, I now try to work from home on Fridays - 12 years at 1K/wk, 4hrs/day heavy, highly-demanding traffic is loosing its appeal).
L&R grip switchgear
Faulty indicator
Head races
Fork seals
Exhaust link pipe weld slightly blowing (not enough weld filler material) - sealed with Loctite 5920
Seized rear floating calliper - captive boss end sawn off to free up stud
Paint flaking off mirror stalks, crankcase & sump, bar-ends
I might scare some of you with this but I have never had any intention of having the valves checked; have never changed the air filter (I tap the largest debris out once a year) and have changed the plugs once. I believe I am on the 4th belt (original pulley & sprocket) and find that they need changing around 28-30K mile point (I don't change at the first sign of root fracture but will order one in at this point). I have tried adjusting the belt tension but have never seen any evidence of the eccentric barrel/hub moving; fortunately, the tension is nominal (offers 45 degree rotational deflection, mid-span) and it is possible to run a new belt on to the sprocket without much difficulty, with the right strategy. My current weekly mileage is 800-1000, I now try to work from home on Fridays - 12 years at 1K/wk, 4hrs/day heavy, highly-demanding traffic is loosing its appeal).
Hi Alistair.
Well done on the landmark 100,000 miles . . Can I ask what you mean ref strategy on the running of a new belt ? Make sure it's got the 45 degrees deflection as you say and then just break the new belt in gently yes ? Just nosey on what you meant. . . Well done again on the superb high mileage. . Top test rider. .
Cheers Scotty . . .
Well done on the landmark 100,000 miles . . Can I ask what you mean ref strategy on the running of a new belt ? Make sure it's got the 45 degrees deflection as you say and then just break the new belt in gently yes ? Just nosey on what you meant. . . Well done again on the superb high mileage. . Top test rider. .
Cheers Scotty . . .
Hi Scotty,
By 'running on' I just mean fitting it without the benefit of slacking off the tensioner. I used to also remove the pulley flange but stopped after I snapped a seized screw but there is no need to remove it anyway.#
1. Remove the belt and pulley covers (I am calling the pulley the small one and the sprocket the larger one).
2. With the bike on the centre-stand, slide the old belt off the sprocket (rotating the wheel, if required, unpowered)
3. With the bike on the side-stand, undo the RH peg assembly and RH centre stand nut & bolt.
4. Feed the old belt out of the gap and fit the new one over the pulley only.
5. Re-bolt the peg and centre-stand.
6. Put the bike on the centre stand.
7. Select first gear to lock the pulley.
8. Pull the top run of the belt backward from the pulley to tension it as much as possible and feed it on to as many top, rear grooves of the sprocket that you can (this will only be a little bit biting).
9. Hold in place and select neutral and rotate the wheel backwards to feed the belt around the rear of the sprocket (it will still be mostly hanging off to the side, all around the sprocket).
10. While still turning the wheel backwards, tap the belt with your palm to encourage the belt to seat fully to the inside.
You can try step 8 without selecting first gear but with these last steps, watch out for trapping fingers. Step 9 should be completed rapidly, to minimise stress on the belt. Using the centre stand (rear wheel at its lowest) reduces the centre distance between pulley and sprocket, making the fitting easier.
Cheers
Alistair
By 'running on' I just mean fitting it without the benefit of slacking off the tensioner. I used to also remove the pulley flange but stopped after I snapped a seized screw but there is no need to remove it anyway.#
1. Remove the belt and pulley covers (I am calling the pulley the small one and the sprocket the larger one).
2. With the bike on the centre-stand, slide the old belt off the sprocket (rotating the wheel, if required, unpowered)
3. With the bike on the side-stand, undo the RH peg assembly and RH centre stand nut & bolt.
4. Feed the old belt out of the gap and fit the new one over the pulley only.
5. Re-bolt the peg and centre-stand.
6. Put the bike on the centre stand.
7. Select first gear to lock the pulley.
8. Pull the top run of the belt backward from the pulley to tension it as much as possible and feed it on to as many top, rear grooves of the sprocket that you can (this will only be a little bit biting).
9. Hold in place and select neutral and rotate the wheel backwards to feed the belt around the rear of the sprocket (it will still be mostly hanging off to the side, all around the sprocket).
10. While still turning the wheel backwards, tap the belt with your palm to encourage the belt to seat fully to the inside.
You can try step 8 without selecting first gear but with these last steps, watch out for trapping fingers. Step 9 should be completed rapidly, to minimise stress on the belt. Using the centre stand (rear wheel at its lowest) reduces the centre distance between pulley and sprocket, making the fitting easier.
Cheers
Alistair
Another garage queen bike I suppose. That is a lot of Starbuck's! Congrats on your milestone.
Thanks Alistair .
All good info to know. . How did you find the tension of each new belt fitted. . ?
All good info to know. . How did you find the tension of each new belt fitted. . ?
Congrats on your achievement, & while not trying to take anything away from it, wouldn't one expect to get that kind of mileage & more?, admitted, I have only ridded one bike over 100k, a 2002 R1150R, (& had no reason to think it wouldn't go around again) However I have ridden & sold many bikes "Knock'n" on the door of 100k & think that they would easily top that threshold. I am currently considering a F800gt as my next bike, I am awaiting a test ride, I can't help believe that this bike, with proper maintenance isn't capable of going well beyond 100k jmop
10-step method of belt replacement highly appreciated, alistair. Truly you are an F800GT Jedi Master.
Surprised to hear you say the VFR was less than reliable, having had two one where I put on a little over 60,000 miles and the other in the 40k range and only had one failure. On the first one, a 98, I had the dreaded Regulator/Rectifier go out. But that was it besides fluids, filters, chain/sprockets and a battery or two.
Ah, I didn't mean to suggest that all the other bikes were unreliable, just that across the range of failures incurred by the all, my experience of the GT puts it at the better end.
Yes, I too had the RR go on my 2002? VFR, replaced under warranty. That bike lasted well for 86,000 miles and was sheer luxury, with an extravagant fuel consumption of that model to match (twice that of the GT).
I judge the GT belt tension by twisting the centre of the top belt run, with the bike supporting its weight (at static sag). If it is difficult to twist beyond 45 degrees, that works fine for me.
Yes, I too had the RR go on my 2002? VFR, replaced under warranty. That bike lasted well for 86,000 miles and was sheer luxury, with an extravagant fuel consumption of that model to match (twice that of the GT).
I judge the GT belt tension by twisting the centre of the top belt run, with the bike supporting its weight (at static sag). If it is difficult to twist beyond 45 degrees, that works fine for me.
Great info alistair, thanks for sharing [thumb]
I added you posting with the 10-step plan to this thread in the HoW for future reference:
http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/243985-How-many-miles-w-o-a-drive-belt-failure
I added you posting with the 10-step plan to this thread in the HoW for future reference:
http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/243985-How-many-miles-w-o-a-drive-belt-failure
I have come late to your post Alistair. My compliments also on your management of belts. I have recorded belt and tyres on 2 STs and 1 GT over the past 200k km(150k miles). 8 years. I have replaced belts at 40k km without noticeable wear or tooth loss thus far. Front tyres(mainly Pilot Roads) give ave 25k km on the front and 17k on the rear. My GT has only 12 k km so far on the clock with Metzlers. Great winter grip but inferior longlivity. The back has been just replaced due to recurrent pressure loss and the front hasn't more than maybe another 5k left on the thread. A switch over to Michelins methinks!
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