Tools Required
To remove the front wheel on a F800S/ST, you will require the following tools.
Torx Screwdrivers: T30, T45
22mm Axle Tool
(Any hexagonal bar that measures 22mm across the flats will work - I used a 22mm bolt. I screwed a larger nut onto it to provide a "stop" so that it did not slide all the way into the axle, and used a pair of locking vice grips on the threads to provide a handle. Worked very well and is portable.)
Tieback for Brake Calipers (i.e. Bunji Cord)
Lifting the bike
There are a number of options for lifting the bike. The centerstand will work, but you will want to have some weight on the rear to keep the weight of of the front tire. Alternatively you can use paddock stands or a jack. You need to have the front wheel clear of the ground, and the bike securely balanced.
I opted to use a motorcycle jack, and secured the bike to the sides of the garage using tiedowns just to avoid extra excitement.
Removal of Disk Calipers
The disk calipers are attached to the forks of the bike using two T45 torx screws
Remove the two T45 torx screws securing the disk calipers to the forks of the bike.
If you have ABS you will need to remove the ABS sensor (the cable is tied to the brake hose - sorry, my bike is NON abs, so photos are not available).
Gently rock the calipers side to side to push back the pads a bit. Ease the caliper off of the brake rotors - they are a snug fit and may take a bit of rocking to remove.
Secure the calipers out of the way. I used a bunji cord.
Repeat the same steps for the other side of the bike.
IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER touch the front brake lever if you have removed the calipers from the bike. After reinstalling calipers give the front brake lever six full squeezes to reseat calipers on the rotors.
Removal of Wheel Axle
On the right hand fork right beside the axle, there are two T45 screws that clamp the axle. Loosen these off. (It is not necessary to remove them).
Put something under the front wheel to support the weight - I used a pair of gloves. You do not want the front wheel to suddenly drop when you release the axle.
Once you have loosened the axle clamp screws, you can begin to unscrew the axle. It should not give you a lot of difficulty - a little snug at the start, but unscrews with ease. Be patient, it will take a while to remove the entire axle.
You can see the axle unscrewing from the opposite side as it is removed.
You will feel it when the axle clears the left hand clamp - the wheel will drop slightly (this is why you have something supporting the weight of the wheel).
Continue to unscrew the axle until you are able to remove it by pulling it directly out. Support the wheel with one hand while removing the axle. Put it aside where it will not be damaged. (The silvery paste is axle grease).
If you have a high enough stand, your wheel will roll right out. If you are using a centre stand that does not afford as much ground clearance, you will need to remove the front fender to free up the wheel. It is secured by four T30 screws - two on either side. They are very easy to remove.
Be careful with the wheel once removed - the brake rotors can be damaged easily (and are expensive to replace). If you put it down on the ground, put a towel down first to protect them.
Notes: Not a lot of force is required to remove the fasteners. The most difficult to remove were the T45s securing the brake calipers to the axle.
To remove the front wheel on a F800S/ST, you will require the following tools.
Torx Screwdrivers: T30, T45
22mm Axle Tool
(Any hexagonal bar that measures 22mm across the flats will work - I used a 22mm bolt. I screwed a larger nut onto it to provide a "stop" so that it did not slide all the way into the axle, and used a pair of locking vice grips on the threads to provide a handle. Worked very well and is portable.)
Tieback for Brake Calipers (i.e. Bunji Cord)
Lifting the bike
There are a number of options for lifting the bike. The centerstand will work, but you will want to have some weight on the rear to keep the weight of of the front tire. Alternatively you can use paddock stands or a jack. You need to have the front wheel clear of the ground, and the bike securely balanced.
I opted to use a motorcycle jack, and secured the bike to the sides of the garage using tiedowns just to avoid extra excitement.
Removal of Disk Calipers
The disk calipers are attached to the forks of the bike using two T45 torx screws
Remove the two T45 torx screws securing the disk calipers to the forks of the bike.
If you have ABS you will need to remove the ABS sensor (the cable is tied to the brake hose - sorry, my bike is NON abs, so photos are not available).
Gently rock the calipers side to side to push back the pads a bit. Ease the caliper off of the brake rotors - they are a snug fit and may take a bit of rocking to remove.
Secure the calipers out of the way. I used a bunji cord.
Repeat the same steps for the other side of the bike.
IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER touch the front brake lever if you have removed the calipers from the bike. After reinstalling calipers give the front brake lever six full squeezes to reseat calipers on the rotors.
Removal of Wheel Axle
On the right hand fork right beside the axle, there are two T45 screws that clamp the axle. Loosen these off. (It is not necessary to remove them).
Put something under the front wheel to support the weight - I used a pair of gloves. You do not want the front wheel to suddenly drop when you release the axle.
Once you have loosened the axle clamp screws, you can begin to unscrew the axle. It should not give you a lot of difficulty - a little snug at the start, but unscrews with ease. Be patient, it will take a while to remove the entire axle.
You can see the axle unscrewing from the opposite side as it is removed.
You will feel it when the axle clears the left hand clamp - the wheel will drop slightly (this is why you have something supporting the weight of the wheel).
Continue to unscrew the axle until you are able to remove it by pulling it directly out. Support the wheel with one hand while removing the axle. Put it aside where it will not be damaged. (The silvery paste is axle grease).
If you have a high enough stand, your wheel will roll right out. If you are using a centre stand that does not afford as much ground clearance, you will need to remove the front fender to free up the wheel. It is secured by four T30 screws - two on either side. They are very easy to remove.
Be careful with the wheel once removed - the brake rotors can be damaged easily (and are expensive to replace). If you put it down on the ground, put a towel down first to protect them.
Notes: Not a lot of force is required to remove the fasteners. The most difficult to remove were the T45s securing the brake calipers to the axle.