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Front suspension set-up?

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10K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  pigmy  
#1 ·
I am replacing the front forks on my F800ST.

In the old set up the top of the forks are pretty much flush with the top surface of the upper fork cross brace.

I have seen in photos, some here on f800riders, the top of the forks stick out some distance above the top of the fork cross brace.

I was just wondering why this is and where they should be set? I presume it is something to do with setting the ride height of the front of the bike to suit the rider?
 
#2 ·
they start flush. You can lower the point where they sit to shorten the wheel base a little for a little more aggressive sporty feel.
Kismecaptian, I believe had his lowered a few times. He'd be the person to ask about the differences.
One thing you might want to think about is why the forks are out is to at the very min, replace the springs with ones sized for your weight and riding style.
There are quite a few post on suspension here.
I went for the traxxion cartridge replacement route so I would have adjustability on the dampening, and preload.

Most people change the front springs at the very least.

Upgrading the suspension was by far and away the best mod I made.
 
#12 ·
they start flush.
No they don't - not on the ST (as per the OP) at any rate. The fork tubes do protrude above the top yoke on the S, but that is entirely due to the different top yokes - the steering geometry is identical.
 
#4 ·
It quickens the steering up very slightly. Lowers the ride height a tiny bit.

What's the problem? Or what do you want to achieve? If you're happy with the handling, then slinging the new forks in exactly where the old forks were will be fine. If you feel it's a bit sluggish to chuck around on the road to Kawhia or you want a bit more manoeuvrability when fully committed to a corner then push the forks up in the yokes - try 5mm at a time and see how it feels.

Mind you, with the wet roads now and onset of winter I'd recommend just putting them back where they were and experimenting when we can afford decent weather again.
 
#5 ·
Its not just a matter of ride height but of steering geometry. You say you are replacing your forks with something else. I strongly suggest for starters you mount them at whatever height in the clamps to reproduce the original ride height. Then double check that when your new forks bottom that they do not hit the lower clamp.

Once you have your baseline and know how it performs try 5mm each way, up and down. No matter the very long travel of pure off-road dirtbikes just 5mm can make a big difference in the bike's handling.
 
#6 ·
When changing to progressive springs the bike sits slightly higher than before so the forks are dropped to bring them back to the original height and so 10mm or so will be showing instead of flush.
 
#10 ·
I think the ST top yoke is different compared to the S (well I know it is for sure) But I think the ST has a projection and the S doesn't (unless the S has HyperPro Springs fitted)
So presumably if an ST has HyperPro springs the projection is even more?
 
#11 ·
The lower yoke on the S and ST is the same.
The dimension from the lower yoke will take care of the differences in the top yokes.
Hyperpro springs will make no difference to the position of the fork tubes.

** Just checked on RepRom
Dimension 245mm is to top of tube without cap fitted.
Fork tubes protrude by 3mm on 'S' model and 11.5mm on ST without cap.
Machining and assembly tolerances will possible change these values.
The toleranced 245mm +/-0.5mm dimension is the definitive position.
 
#13 ·
The instructions for the hyperpro springs specifically states that the tubes have to be pushed through 10mm more than stock. On my S they were just about flush to start and other S's I've seen are flush but the ST's start off sticking up 10mm or so. But the S top yoke is higher than the ST.
 
#14 ·
My copy of the Hyperpro manual states for F800S
"Mount fork 10mm trhough (sic) triple clamp"
It does not say "10mm more than stock"
Stock for F800S is approx 3mm through the clamp.
Stock for ST is approx 11.5mm.
These numbers are in your RepRom under technical data.
Raising the forktubes through the yokes will alter the steering geometry - it will reduce rake.
I very much doubt if the majority of riders would be able to notice the difference that a few mm's would make as long as both fork legs are set the same!
 
#19 · (Edited)
I'll scan/upload the little bit of F800 specific info that was taped to the outside of the hyperpro manual that came with my forksprings. there's no mention of dropping the forks there*, although there's a value listed for static sag. had my dealer do the install during my 6k checkup, from what I can tell (with a ruler [:D] ) they left the forks at 3mm above.

still getting used to them, I think they're settled now, really liking the improved braking but for sure got to spend some time fine tuning the back spring now that the accel/decel feels so much more linear.

gonna live at 3mm for some time and maybe do some trial/error 5mm drops.

-tp
 
#23 ·
The dimension of 245mm +0.5/-0.5mm from the top surface of the bottom yoke to top of the fork leg (without the plastic cap) is the measurement in the RepRom for both F800S and ST. This takes care of assembly and part variations.
The amount of tube protruding from the top yoke is approx 3mm for an F800S and approx 10mm for a F800ST because of the different top yokes(triple clamps)