3D printed parts for the F800S and F800ST
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
These are pretty incredible. Obviously, you're an experienced designer and printer. I hope this tech really takes off so people are print their own parts at home for a reasonable cost. What is the printer and material you are using and what is the cost? It looks like you're in France so the cost may not translate to the U.S. but interested in learning more anyways.
Joined
·
221 Posts
Hi Chupa. Thanks for your interest in this technology.
The price of the parts is really reasonnable, unless you take the print time into account, which is really donwside of it.
I use a cheap consumer printer, a Tevo Tarantula which costed around $200 new. This was a kit, so I had to build it myself, and after that, I have spent the 6 first months to fine tune my print settings and print mod parts to improve the precision and quality.
There are some much more expansive printer available, which are already good out of the box, but my thought is, that you can't use a machine efficiently if you're just pushing the start button and don't try to understand how to make the best parts from it.
Regarding the materials, it depends on the type of parts :
- PLA is the most common material. It's easy to print (205°C). However it's quite brittle and doesn't like UV exposure. It's good for purely aesthetic parts
- PLA with metal particles. I use this type of PLA to make nice parts looking like metal (Brass, Steel, Gold) and which are heavier than a fully plastic part. The counterpart is, that it's weaker than simple plastic.
- PTEG is the same plastic used for soda bottles. It prints at a higher temp (240°C)and is a bit trickier because it has a tendency to make unwanted "dripping" filaments. But it's strong, flexible and food safe.
- ABS. Very strong, heat resistant, but very tricky to print (260°C + heated pint bed). It warps much due to its high thermal elongation coefficient. Used for mechanical part
- ASA. As strong as ABS, UV resistant. It needs a high temp as well (260°C + heated bed), but warps much less than ABS. This is my preferred material to print parts for the motorbike.
All these materials are available in many colors and finishes : dull, metallic, translucent, glowing in night,...
The price of the filament varies from $15 for 2 lbs of basic PLA to prices like 90$ for 2 lbs of carbon reinforced plastic.
Below is an example of part printed with brass filled filament. I have scanned my daughter with a camera, made a 3d model from the pictures with a dedicated software, and printed her :
The price of the parts is really reasonnable, unless you take the print time into account, which is really donwside of it.
I use a cheap consumer printer, a Tevo Tarantula which costed around $200 new. This was a kit, so I had to build it myself, and after that, I have spent the 6 first months to fine tune my print settings and print mod parts to improve the precision and quality.
There are some much more expansive printer available, which are already good out of the box, but my thought is, that you can't use a machine efficiently if you're just pushing the start button and don't try to understand how to make the best parts from it.
Regarding the materials, it depends on the type of parts :
- PLA is the most common material. It's easy to print (205°C). However it's quite brittle and doesn't like UV exposure. It's good for purely aesthetic parts
- PLA with metal particles. I use this type of PLA to make nice parts looking like metal (Brass, Steel, Gold) and which are heavier than a fully plastic part. The counterpart is, that it's weaker than simple plastic.
- PTEG is the same plastic used for soda bottles. It prints at a higher temp (240°C)and is a bit trickier because it has a tendency to make unwanted "dripping" filaments. But it's strong, flexible and food safe.
- ABS. Very strong, heat resistant, but very tricky to print (260°C + heated pint bed). It warps much due to its high thermal elongation coefficient. Used for mechanical part
- ASA. As strong as ABS, UV resistant. It needs a high temp as well (260°C + heated bed), but warps much less than ABS. This is my preferred material to print parts for the motorbike.
All these materials are available in many colors and finishes : dull, metallic, translucent, glowing in night,...
The price of the filament varies from $15 for 2 lbs of basic PLA to prices like 90$ for 2 lbs of carbon reinforced plastic.
Below is an example of part printed with brass filled filament. I have scanned my daughter with a camera, made a 3d model from the pictures with a dedicated software, and printed her :
Mind sharing which printer you're using? I've been on the fence about getting one for myself, just not sure how much I'd actually use it. There's really only a few things I'd actually want for my bike, and the rest of my ideas are more geared towards just fun things to print for the kids. I'm looking at the Ender 3, which says it can print ABS, but it looks like the max temp for the stock hotend is 250 C, so I'd prolly need to upgrade an all-metal one.
Joined
·
221 Posts
As said in my previous post, I use a modded Tevo Tarantula. The max temp is mainly dictated by the original PSU, which can't handle high temps for both the heated bed and the nozzle. I switched to a 500W PC PSU and it works fine with the standard hotend (E3D clone on which I modified the heat exchanger fans) at 260°C with a bed heating at 100°C.
Very cool! Thanks for taking the time to reply with such details. I'll be keeping an eye on this tech for the near future.Hi Chupa. Thanks for your interest in this technology.
I wish I could get a pair of these - unfortunately, due to the missing E in a circle number, I doubt I can actually get my roadworthiness approval (Tüv) with them. Bueraucracy preventing foolishness for some and ingenueity for others as in this case at the same time.
A further idea for improvement: Have you tried vapour bathing the (I'm assuming) ASA parts? It supposedly works quite well with ABS and I was wondering how it would affect the stress fracture breaking point, as it liquifies a top layer of the plastic - the split along the back end of the mirror holder being a single layer, it might be a bit too much for it. However, the smoother texture would probably be enough to allow me to get these parts signed off by the local Tüv engineer.
Joined
·
221 Posts
Hi Tengu,
See below my test parts. The 3 ones starting from the right were about testing solutions for the surface finish :
Zooming in :
1st from the left : acetone vapor test. It seems impossible to obtain a smooth finish and not melt the part at the same time. This part is too thin for this solution.
2nd : epoxy resin finish directly put on the part from the printer. Promising but not sufficient
3rd : hand polish with 240 grit then 1000 grit
I think the best is epoxy resin after a quick 240 grit polish. I'll try that once I buy a new spool of black ASA.
See below my test parts. The 3 ones starting from the right were about testing solutions for the surface finish :
Zooming in :
1st from the left : acetone vapor test. It seems impossible to obtain a smooth finish and not melt the part at the same time. This part is too thin for this solution.
2nd : epoxy resin finish directly put on the part from the printer. Promising but not sufficient
3rd : hand polish with 240 grit then 1000 grit
I think the best is epoxy resin after a quick 240 grit polish. I'll try that once I buy a new spool of black ASA.
Joined
·
1,255 Posts
Looking good! I really appreciate your updates which allow us to follow the progression. I've learned more about 3D printing from you than any other source.
Hi,
I recently installed some 3D printed mirror extenders. A friend has a printer and he said it was pretty easy. I am including a link to where I found the plans (I think plans were $2). The plans say they are 3.5cm but I think I had my friend make them wider because I was still looking at my elbows/forearms with standard extenders. I am pretty happy with them, found longer bolts at Ace hardware (not Torx), they vibrate a bit when going over bigger bumps but otherwise stable. I don't think the plastic is especially strong but seems strong enough.
Link is: https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/herramientas/bmw-motorcycle-mirror-extender
![Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Fuel tank Hood]()
![Tire Bicycle Wheel Bicycle wheel Bicycle tire]()
![Vehicle Fuel tank Mirror Motor vehicle Automotive lighting]()
I recently installed some 3D printed mirror extenders. A friend has a printer and he said it was pretty easy. I am including a link to where I found the plans (I think plans were $2). The plans say they are 3.5cm but I think I had my friend make them wider because I was still looking at my elbows/forearms with standard extenders. I am pretty happy with them, found longer bolts at Ace hardware (not Torx), they vibrate a bit when going over bigger bumps but otherwise stable. I don't think the plastic is especially strong but seems strong enough.
Link is: https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/herramientas/bmw-motorcycle-mirror-extender
Joined
·
92 Posts
What size windshield do you have attached there? I have a 20or21" and am thinking of having a taller one made...
hello, First of all, my congratulations for the works, I think they are great.
I wanted to ask you a couple of questions. What program did you use to make the figure of the girl? Can you make the design with several photos?
Have you thought about making our motorcycle in a model to print? I have been looking for it for a long time but I am not able to do it, I have found the "R" but not the "S".Maybe could you make the missing pieces or adapt it so it can be printed? Thanks very much
https://www.3dcadbrowser.com/3d-model/bmw-f800r
I wanted to ask you a couple of questions. What program did you use to make the figure of the girl? Can you make the design with several photos?
Have you thought about making our motorcycle in a model to print? I have been looking for it for a long time but I am not able to do it, I have found the "R" but not the "S".Maybe could you make the missing pieces or adapt it so it can be printed? Thanks very much
https://www.3dcadbrowser.com/3d-model/bmw-f800r
Hi Chupa. Thanks for your interest in this technology.
The price of the parts is really reasonnable, unless you take the print time into account, which is really donwside of it.
I use a cheap consumer printer, a Tevo Tarantula which costed around $200 new. This was a kit, so I had to build it myself, and after that, I have spent the 6 first months to fine tune my print settings and print mod parts to improve the precision and quality.
There are some much more expansive printer available, which are already good out of the box, but my thought is, that you can't use a machine efficiently if you're just pushing the start button and don't try to understand how to make the best parts from it.
Regarding the materials, it depends on the type of parts :
- PLA is the most common material. It's easy to print (205°C). However it's quite brittle and doesn't like UV exposure. It's good for purely aesthetic parts
- PLA with metal particles. I use this type of PLA to make nice parts looking like metal (Brass, Steel, Gold) and which are heavier than a fully plastic part. The counterpart is, that it's weaker than simple plastic.
- PTEG is the same plastic used for soda bottles. It prints at a higher temp (240°C)and is a bit trickier because it has a tendency to make unwanted "dripping" filaments. But it's strong, flexible and food safe.
- ABS. Very strong, heat resistant, but very tricky to print (260°C + heated pint bed). It warps much due to its high thermal elongation coefficient. Used for mechanical part
- ASA. As strong as ABS, UV resistant. It needs a high temp as well (260°C + heated bed), but warps much less than ABS. This is my preferred material to print parts for the motorbike.
All these materials are available in many colors and finishes : dull, metallic, translucent, glowing in night,...
The price of the filament varies from $15 for 2 lbs of basic PLA to prices like 90$ for 2 lbs of carbon reinforced plastic.
Below is an example of part printed with brass filled filament. I have scanned my daughter with a camera, made a 3d model from the pictures with a dedicated software, and printed her :
Joined
·
221 Posts
Hi Inra,
Thanks for your kind words.
I have used different programs to make the statue. First, I have used a software called meshroom to build a mesh from a serie of pictures I had taken from my daughter. Then, I have imported this mesh in Zbrush, to refine it, add data where they were missing and closing the mesh to be able to print it.
Finally, I have imported the stl in my slicer to print it.
Joined
·
221 Posts
Hi TV800st. I'm using Fusion360 to make all my 3D models. There is a free version available for hobbyists.
Joined
·
1 Posts
I LOVE this one, would you sell one to me? Or sell me the file and I print (I buy your unfold mirrors)Rear wheel center cap
The last design I have made.
After changing my wheels, I found there was something missing : a proper center cap.
I have copiedthe model I made for the Givi case badge and modified it for this function.
Instead of a flat base, it has a segmented cylindrical base, that grips into the hub thanks to the plastic's elasticity.
Here is a cut section from Fusion 360 :
Again, I have used a thick coat of soft epoxy resin to do the finish :
If you have a closer look, you'll notice, that these are 2 differents designs. The left one is with embossed details, and right is with engraved detail
Which one do you prefer ?
Enviado desde mi M2007J3SG mediante Tapatalk
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
